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FS 3.175

Adding value to the wool: which opportunities for mountain regions?

Details

Full Title
FS 3.175: Adding value to wool, from globalization to the circular economy: which opportunities for mountain regions?
Scheduled
TBA
Location
TBA
Convener
Jean-Baptiste Grison
Co-Conveners
Arielle Vidal,
Assigned to Synthesis Workshop
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Thematic Focus
Agriculture, Resources, Socio-Ecology, Sustainable Development
Keywords
wool processing, circular economy, sheep-breeding

Description

Wool processing is a traditional activity in many mountain regions. Since the 19th century, this activity became increasingly industrialized, in a context of globalized trade. Finally, at the beginning of the 21st century, industrial wool processing activities were concentrated in Asia. In Europe, this industry has almost disappeared, except for a few specialized centers. However, since the 1970s, the valorization of wool generate more and more initiatives based on social and territorial innovation. The resource, still present in sheep-breeding regions, remains rich in craft skills which a growing number of stakeholders are interested in developing. Since the health crisis of 2020, European wool, mainly exported to Asia, has lost access to Chinese market. Since then, in European sheep farms, wool has often been considered a waste product, due to the lack of organized value chains. But wool is an interesting material, as it can be used for many purposes (textiles, insulation, mulching, etc.). The quality of wool varies according to species, breed, rearing conditions. This session aims to address this questions:

What are the opportunities for mountain regions in terms of local development and economy when it comes to (re)building regional wool production and value-adding circuits?
How can wool contribute to the circular economy and eco-responsible economic development?
What role does wool play in farming systems, and how can we move from a constraint to a diversification opportunity for farmers?

Submitted Abstracts

ID: 3.9909

Bridging the local-global gap: Strategic embedding in the Alpine wool sector

Markus Lambracht
Sommer, Carola; Chilla, Tobias

Abstract/Description

The European wool sector is strongly embedded into culture and tradition but has significantly undergone economic structural changes linked to globalization processes. This poses substantial challenges not only for sheep farms but for the entire wool value chain. Based on the results of an Interreg Alpine Space project (AlpTextyles), our study explores how Global Production Networks (GPN) debates are reflected at the regional level, utilizing wool in the European Alps as a case study. While global wool production and textile processing have received broad academic attention within GPN debates, the regional level, and particularly de-shored economies are less prominent. Therefore, the wool textile value chain in the European Alps serves as a meaningful example. Using different mapping approaches, we examine the post-decoupling networks in terms of value, governance, and embeddedness. “Regional network hubs” provide platforms for farmers to create critical product masses. More specifically, “strategic embedding” captures such linkages by combining embeddedness and strategic coupling arguments. From a conceptual point of view in economic geography, this research contributes to understanding the nexus between the local and global level, focusing on economic power at the regional level that underpins traditional GPN governance arguments. This provides insights into how regional actors maintain economic stability and growth even when global linkages waver. Practically, our work highlights the economic potential of Alpine wool and demonstrates one possible option to increase local value creation for farmers, SMEs and the textile industry.

ID: 3.12987

small scale initiatives vs national plans in the revival of wool in teh French Alps

Edith Chezel

Abstract/Description

What is done in France and in the French Alpes to add value to the wool? Currently, 90% of French wool is either exported, mainly to Asia, or treated as waste. Only 5% is valorised in France, here and there, through fabulous however very small-scale initiatives. In this presentation we will focus on a group of farmers and their Arles Merino sheep in the South East quarter of the French Alpes. Since 2012, with the help of Marie-Thérèse Chaupin, Atelier laines d’Europe, and Nigel Thompson, the Consortio Biella Wool Company, they have created a brand with high added value: Mérilainos. With an eco-anthropological approach, observing the evolution of their agricultural practices, we will present the weaving of this special collective wool, deeply embedded in the Merino landscapes. The contrast with the French government approach will also be presented in a socio-technical perspective. Started in 2019 the national initiative « Collectif Tricolor » entends to (re)organize the French wool sector, first starting with ignoring the diversity of sheep races: about fifty, and second, dreaming of a national industry. Is there a chance that the French government ambitions finally meet small scale initiatives? We can make the hypothesis that the revival already at work in spinning (in the Alps, Pyrenean and Massif central but also in Britain), in “ecological craftwork” (engagement with material) and in farmer’s union might be inspiring and represent key actors.

ID: 3.13099

The conditions for structuring the wool industry in southern France: the key role of stakeholders’ perception of the co-product.

Arielle Vidal
Heinninger, Marie-Christine; Amichi, Hichem

Abstract/Description

In the face of the climate emergency and biodiversity decline, it is essential to transform production systems to reduce dependence on fossil fuels and petrochemical products such as plastic. In Southern France, the wool industry illustrates this industrial renewal towards a circular economy. However, beyond the potential of these bio-sourced sectors, their structuring and implementation in rural areas face various constraints. Therefore, examining their emergence process is essential to identify the critical factors that can drive their development. In this study, we specifically analyze the emergence process of a wool sector within the context of the AOP Roquefort industry, which is characterized by an abundance of sheep wool. We will specifically examine the complementarities or barriers that exist between the primary production, which is sheep milk, and the wool sector. For this end, we conducted an in-depth observation and a series of interviews between 2021 and 2024. Six interviews with key stakeholders (the mill director, representatives of sheep farmers, and regional policymakers) provided insight into the industry’s structure and operations. Additionally, 44 farmers were surveyed regarding the challenges of wool marketing, the associated costs, and the prospects for developing this sector. We identified two key mechanisms supporting the structuring of this industry. First, stakeholders—including project leaders, farmers, and policymakers—incorporate this initiative within the continuity of dairy farming, thereby reinforcing the sustainable image of Roquefort AOP. Second, the unique partnership between actors from diverse sectors (agriculture, craftsmanship, finance, commerce) facilitates cross-sector collaboration. The project is partially led by farmers through their association, which enhances political engagement and facilitates financial and technical support. However, the industry still faces challenges, particularly the uneven commitment of farmers, which often depends on their proximity to the wool mill and their networks. This disparity may hinder efforts to improve wool quality, as achieving higher standards requires additional work, such as the wool sorting. In conclusion, this initiative highlights the importance of cooperation between farmers and the industry to enhance the value of locally sourced wool. If this dynamic continues to grow, it could enhance the economic value of wool, and accelerate the agroecological transition.

ID: 3.13235

Sheep grazing for ecological management on U.S. public lands: a pathway to new income streams and wool markets

Kelly Hopping
Swette, Briana; Whitaker, Sarah

Abstract/Description

For over a century, transhumant sheep production in the western United States has mainly occurred on public lands managed by federal agencies, such as the U.S. Forest Service. While large flocks of sheep continue to be herded across these rangelands, following available forage up into the mountains each summer, their numbers have declined dramatically since World War II. This decrease in the American range sheep industry has been driven by many factors, including closures of higher elevation federal lands to sheep grazing in response to environmental concerns and the reduced profitability of wool. Although fine wool breeds are predominantly used in these transhumant sheep systems, in recent decades, shearing costs, fragmentation of the wool supply chain, and low wool prices have contributed to their wool being viewed as a low-value byproduct of lamb (meat) production. In parallel with the decline in sheep numbers and profitability, environmental challenges on public lands have been mounting, with the spread of invasive plant species and wildfire cited as top concerns. Consequently, public land managers in the western U.S. are increasingly interested in the potential of using sheep grazing as a tool to reduce invasive plants and wildfire risk.

To improve understanding of this emerging management practice and its potential to bolster wool production in western mountains, we surveyed all individuals with sheep grazing permits on National Forests and corresponding Forest Service staff across seven states. Our results highlight institutional- and individual-level factors that could act as levers to enable environmentally oriented grazing strategies that once again favor transhumant sheep production in the western U.S, even in a socio-historical context where little cultural value is placed on the role of sheep on public lands. We find that although adoption of this practice has been patchy, its growing use could provide new income streams to those paid to graze their sheep to meet ecological objectives, improve public perception of the instrumental value of sheep, and ultimately create opportunities to market wool to consumers who are motivated to pay for fiber products from sheep that are helping to address societally-relevant environmental concerns.

ID: 3.13654

How can social innovation create a link between wool processing and territorial development? A comparative approach between French and Italian Alps

Jean-Baptiste Grison
Lanza, Nazarena

Abstract/Description

Wool production is a traditional activity in many mountain regions. In the 19th and 20th centuries, the processing underwent a degree of industrialisation, accompanied by increasingly globalised trade. Today, industrial wool processing activities have all but disappeared from Western Europe, with the exception of a few specialist centers, such as Biella in the Italian Piedmont.

However, since the 1970s, and more visibly since the 2000s, the value of wool has become the focus of an increasing number of initiatives based on social innovation. The resource, which is still present in sheep-breeding regions, is of little commercial interest, but is still rich in craft skills, the (re)development of which is of interest to a growing number of players.

We conducted surveys of wool industry players (breeders and processors) in the Hautes-Alpes (France) and in the province of Biella (Italy). On the Italian side, it appears that the links between industrial processing, which is still well established in the city, and the wool resources of the Biella mountains have almost completely disappeared. However, the province’s network of eco-museums is working to reactivate these links, through social innovation projects in which the cultural dimension plays an important role. On the French side, industry has given way to craft structures that are firmly rooted in their local areas, where they are relevant levers for a virtuous socio-ecological transition, while also being highly connected to international networks.

Generally speaking, our work has highlighted the challenges of cooperation between the stakeholders in this sector, from agropastoralism to the craft and industrial development of wool, including aspects relating to the cultural and tourist development of the activity. The cross-fertilisation between the French and Italian Alps directly concerns the dynamics of the sector, which is based on cross-border networks and on the ambitions of mountain areas to make the transition.

ID: 3.17751

Weaving Bioregional Material Networks – Circular Valorisation of Alpine Sheep Wool for a Regenerative Economy

Carolin Schelkle

Abstract/Description

In Europe, sheep are primarily bred for meat, dairy production, or landscape maintenance rather than fibre production, resulting in large quantities of raw wool being underutilized or discarded. Due to this, European wool often fails to meet textile industry standards, leading to significant amounts being abandoned in storage, illegally burned, or buried. This practice-based dissertation explores how bioregional production networks can transform European sheep wool into a valuable resource through localized, circular valorisation strategies. Focusing on three to four selected bioregions, the study establishes collaborative production networks among local stakeholders. A systematic analysis of each bioregion is conducted to map existing resource flows and actor constellations, identifying new opportunities for wool processing and integration into regional economies. By leveraging local resources and expertise, these networks develop context-sensitive applications for wool as a secondary product, tailored to the material properties, ecosystem dynamics, and specific needs of each bioregion. The research outcomes include prototypes of wool-based applications that demonstrate how underutilized materials can be reintegrated into regenerative production systems. These artifacts serve as tangible representations of the established production network and their role in fostering sustainable, regionally embedded material cycles. A key contribution of this dissertation is the development of a structured methodological framework for regionally embedded, sustainable wool utilization. Designed for transferability across diverse European bioregions, the framework considers the distinct ecological, economic, and social configurations of each region. When implemented in different areas, the results will vary, as each bioregion, along with its ecosystem and stakeholders, is unique. By bridging material research, local resource valorisation, and collaborative production, this study demonstrates how abandoned or undervalued materials can be reintegrated into sustainable, circular economies. It contributes to the growing discourse on regenerative economies by presenting a scalable model for wool valorisation that strengthens local networks, reduces waste, and fosters environmentally and socially responsible production practices.

FS 3.174: Abandoned (agricultural) building stock in mountain regions: Obstacles or opportunities for rural development?

FS 3.176: Water Scarcity in Mountain Areas: Studies on Environmental Conflicts and Governance Proposals for Water Use

#IMC: September 14 - 18 2025

FS 3.175

Adding value to the wool: which opportunities for mountain regions?

Details

Full Title

Scheduled

Location

Convener

Co-Conveners

Assigned to Synthesis Workshop

Thematic Focus

Keywords

Description

Submitted Abstracts

Abstract/Description

Abstract/Description

Abstract/Description

Abstract/Description

Abstract/Description

Abstract/Description

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